Albuquerque Craigslist Trucks: 1964 Ford F100, 1955 GMC, 1955 Chevy, 1936 Chevy and 1976 Ford F100

1976 Ford F100

As my own 1997 Ford Ranger is about to hit 150,000 miles, I’m starting to think about if I want to keep it as major components are most likely to fail. Some old trucks on Albuquerque’s craigslist encourage me to hold on to it.

My dad had a 1966 Ford F100 longbed exactly like a 1964 F100 Longbed that is listed, including the “three on the tree” manual shifter. It’s what I learned to manual shift on and it’s why I will never own one (mostly because the clutch was screwed up). I also ran into the 1966 Ford with our Dodge Ram Charger. The owner wants $1350.

1964 Ford F100
1964 Ford F100
MUST SELL! 1964 FORD F100 LONGBED. BEEN PARKED FOR 20 YEARS BUT DOES RUN. GREAT FOR FINISHING UP THE RESTORATION. NEW CARBURATOR, BATTERY, BRAKE SEALS, MASTER CYLINDER, OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT…ETC.
THIS IS NOT A NEW TRUCK! BODY IS GREAT, NEEDS PAINT. ONLY RUST ON TRUCK IS ON THE FLOOR FROM THE WINDOW BEING DOWN OTHERWISE RUST FREE!
PLEASE SERIOUS CALLS ONLY, TRUCK HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN A LONG TIME AND IS NOT REGISTERED BUT HAVE CLEAR TITLE.
IT HAS A STRONG CLUTCH AND IS ALL ORIGINAL RIGHT DOWN TO THE 6 CYLINDER ENGINE AND THE 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHIFT ON THE COLUMN.
NOT MUCH NEEDED TO RESTORE, ALSO HAS BFG 31 X 10.5 X 15″ TIRES AND CHROME STEEL WHEELS FROM A 92 MODEL.

A 1955 GMC Truck appears to be running. I especially like the grill.

1955 GMC Truck
1955 GMC Truck
1955 GMC TRUCK
NEW 350 MOTOR, NEW TRANNY
DISC BRAKES, NEEDS A NEW PAINT JOB, AUTOMATIC
ASKING $8,300 OBO

Comparing the 1955 GMC to a 1955 Chevy truck for $5700, I still like the GMC’s grill more.

1855 Chevy Truck
1955 Chevy Truck
1955 CHEVY TRUCK short bed step side 3100. This truck has a 350 motor That runs strong with a brand new wiring harness it also has new Dual flow master exhaust system the cab coners have been cut out and replaced it has new tires all the way around this has alot of potential for a builder and has virtually no rust also has chrome grill it has the original trans 4 speed with granny it is 12volt. runs strong all glass, priced at 5,700 and is titled here in New mexico call Robert for further info or for more pics 9XX-XXX2 might consider trade on C5 Corvette, I dont respond to text messages if ad is still posted I still have it. Thanks and good day

The oldest truck I’ve seen on craigslist is a 1936 chevy pickup truck for $16,000.

1936 Chevy Pickup
1932 Chevy Pickup
2 owner chevy pickup truck runs and drives see pics the truck is very clean the paint and motor fan and battery are not reg the fan elc 12 volt battery trades welcom no junk please

There were quite a few 1970 Ford’s but a 1976 Ford F100 seemed like the nicest one. At 74K miles, seems hard to believe for $2500.

1976 Ford F100
1976 Ford F100
I am regretfully selling my 1976 Ford F100 pickup, my original plan was to fix it all up and make a nice street cruiser, I have yet to have been able to find the time or money to do so. The truck is as original as they come, the water pump and distributor (along with plugs and wires) are the most recent things done to it. It is a standard cab with a 6 foot bed, 2wd, 302 V8 and three speed on the tree. I was told I was the third owner and that the 74,XXX miles that are on it are original and that it has not been turned over. The truck runs great and fires up every time, just needs a good home. I am looking at getting $2500 o.b.o. So serious buyers and cash only (no payments). Respond to this by email or call me at XXX-XXXX, leave a message if I don’t pickup, and I can send more pics or answer any questions. Thanks

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Albuquerque Craigslist: 1950 Fleetline, 1967 Mustang & 1973 F100

I often check out the Albuquerque Craigslist to see what kind of cars are being sold.

Here’s a 1950 Chevrolet Fleetline for $4500. The poster says it’s 99% complete (with restoration I assume). If so that seems like a good price.

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NEEDS A GOOD HOME 1950 FLEETLINE 2DR 216 3SPEED RUNS GOOD NEW BRAKES,DRUMS,AND NEW MASTER CYLINDER,NEW ROCKERS NEW TIRES,CLEAN GLASS 99% COMPLETE NICE CAR $4500

A 1967 Ford Mustang Convertable for $14000. It’s a steep price unless the car has low miles, even if it’s in really good shape.

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1967 Convertible, Windsor White, Red Interior, 289 V-8 Engine, 3 Speed Manual Transmission. Would be a good car to clone into a Shelby Convertible. Very basic model, not a rust bucket. Good interior, good body, no major damage, needs new home. Garage stored, floor panels are good and original. Basically needs nothing. This is what I’d do with it but don’t have the time right now. This car is perfect for a project although it is good as is.

How about a 1973 Ford F100 Pickup for $1900. Again, no idea how many miles but may not be a bad deal if it’s really in the condition stated.

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73 ford f100 360 v8 1/2 ton 2wd white in decent condition barely any rust at all/ minor dents. interior is in awsome condition. no cracked or broken windows No stereo (hasn’t had one the entire time i’ve had the truck, never had money to get a new one) has 2 gas tanks. 22.5 and 19 gallon tanks, and a side tool box built into the truck. Runs well, just replaced starter silanoid, battery, valve cover gaskets,
as well as the transmission pan gasket and filter. had a full tune up on the 25th of april.

Ford Maverick Front Disk Brake Conversion

This article orginally appeared on fordmaverick.com.

The following info is partially from a email sent to me from a fellow Maverick Owner. I followed this same procedure and had no problems.

pedalsmounts.GIF

(This shows the difference between a non booster pedal/steering column mount on the left and one designed for a booster on the right.) The power booster setup from a 1975 or later Maverick has the proper angle to clear the shock tower. Granada also have the similar parts as the Maverick. They are almost the same car and is a good place to find these same parts. Except for stuff like brake lines. The easiest way that I have found to do the whole swap is to get the following parts from the donor car:

  • The power booster/master cylinder assy
  • The shock tower to firewall support
  • The proportioning valve with brake lines

This is the “power” aspect of the whole job. The manual brake pedal mount will not work.

I have found that the spindles from a 1974 manual disc brake Maverick are a direct bolt-in. Simply undo the old ball joints, tie rod ends and rubber brake hoses, and bolt them right in place of the drum spindles.

boostermountinside.GIF

(This is the mount that is installed on the inside of the firewall. Non booster Mavericks do not have this. You may also notice that the “plunger” comes out in a different place that the booster less Maverick. The original hole sits under the middle of this plate. )Installation of the booster and pedal: (This is for a Maverick/Comet with manual drum on all four corners.)

  1. Unbolt the stock 2 bolt master cylinder, prop. valve, and any attached lines that will be in the way.
  2. Undo the under dash tray or glove box panel from inside the car.
  3. Remove the two 9/16″ nuts that hold the plastic cover on the bottom of the column at the dashboard.
  4. There will be two more exposed 9/16″ bolts that will need to be removed. The column should be hanging free. The purpose of all of this is to get to the bolts that hold the pedal and the inner brace up under the dash.
  5. Get all of the bolts out of the brace and remove it with the pedal.

Modification to recipient car:

  1. You will need to make a paper or cardboard template from the back of the booster. There should be four mounting holes for the booster and one egg-shaped hole for the rod that actuates the brakes. (An easy way is to study the firewall on the donor car to get an idea of the holes that will need to be drilled).
  2. To mount the prop. Valve, the two mounting holes may have to be enlarged, depending on the car.
  3. Now figure what brake lines will have to be bent, shortened, etc..
  4. I used a tubing cutter and a double flaring tool that I borrowed from a friend. PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE THE LINES CAME OFF OF THE DONOR CAR. You will need to know which lines off the master cyl. Go to which holes in the prop. Valve, and to which wheel they go from there.

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(my Maverick with the booster installed is really a tight fit.) All in all, it is a relatively easy swap that is well worth the time involved, especially if you plan to hotrod the engine in your car.