The belt buckle (the part connected on the seat that the seat belt latches into) on my 1997 Ford Ranger failed. The button would stick in a pushed state and the belt would not latch or it would latch and then pop out while driving. Sometimes I could hit the button housing and the button would pop out, but it was getting more and more difficult to do. Normally I would search online and order the parts but not wanting to wait any longer to replace the buckle I purchased a new part from a local Ford dealer for $130. I could have probably found it cheaper online but when it comes to safety equipment I prefer to have OEM.
The new buckle came with instructions and will fit 1995 through 1997 Ford Explorer and 1996 through 1997 Lincoln Mountaineer. It also came with instructions but I could not access the screw holding the buckle on the seat which left two options, removing the seat or the center console. I chose to remove the center console.
First the cup holders were removed to access two screws underneath. The cup holds are held on by two clips in the front and sort of hinge of two plastic tabs in the back. I pulled up on the front of the cup holders then pulled the cup holders out.
Once the cup holders are removed two long screws can be removed and this will free the front part of the console.
In the rear of the console there are plastic covers on each side that need to be removed.
Under the covers there are 4 screws (2 on each side) that will allow the arm rest to be removed.
Once the arm rest is removed there is one final screw to be removed. One the center console is removed access to the seatbelt screw is straight forward.
The belt buckle can be removed with a standard T50 torx bit.
As my own 1997 Ford Ranger is about to hit 150,000 miles, I’m starting to think about if I want to keep it as major components are most likely to fail. Some old trucks on Albuquerque’s craigslist encourage me to hold on to it.
My dad had a 1966 Ford F100 longbed exactly like a 1964 F100 Longbed that is listed, including the “three on the tree” manual shifter. It’s what I learned to manual shift on and it’s why I will never own one (mostly because the clutch was screwed up). I also ran into the 1966 Ford with our Dodge Ram Charger. The owner wants $1350.
MUST SELL! 1964 FORD F100 LONGBED. BEEN PARKED FOR 20 YEARS BUT DOES RUN. GREAT FOR FINISHING UP THE RESTORATION. NEW CARBURATOR, BATTERY, BRAKE SEALS, MASTER CYLINDER, OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT…ETC.
THIS IS NOT A NEW TRUCK! BODY IS GREAT, NEEDS PAINT. ONLY RUST ON TRUCK IS ON THE FLOOR FROM THE WINDOW BEING DOWN OTHERWISE RUST FREE!
PLEASE SERIOUS CALLS ONLY, TRUCK HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN A LONG TIME AND IS NOT REGISTERED BUT HAVE CLEAR TITLE.
IT HAS A STRONG CLUTCH AND IS ALL ORIGINAL RIGHT DOWN TO THE 6 CYLINDER ENGINE AND THE 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHIFT ON THE COLUMN.
NOT MUCH NEEDED TO RESTORE, ALSO HAS BFG 31 X 10.5 X 15″ TIRES AND CHROME STEEL WHEELS FROM A 92 MODEL.
1955 CHEVY TRUCK short bed step side 3100. This truck has a 350 motor That runs strong with a brand new wiring harness it also has new Dual flow master exhaust system the cab coners have been cut out and replaced it has new tires all the way around this has alot of potential for a builder and has virtually no rust also has chrome grill it has the original trans 4 speed with granny it is 12volt. runs strong all glass, priced at 5,700 and is titled here in New mexico call Robert for further info or for more pics 9XX-XXX2 might consider trade on C5 Corvette, I dont respond to text messages if ad is still posted I still have it. Thanks and good day
2 owner chevy pickup truck runs and drives see pics the truck is very clean the paint and motor fan and battery are not reg the fan elc 12 volt battery trades welcom no junk please
There were quite a few 1970 Ford’s but a 1976 Ford F100 seemed like the nicest one. At 74K miles, seems hard to believe for $2500.
I am regretfully selling my 1976 Ford F100 pickup, my original plan was to fix it all up and make a nice street cruiser, I have yet to have been able to find the time or money to do so. The truck is as original as they come, the water pump and distributor (along with plugs and wires) are the most recent things done to it. It is a standard cab with a 6 foot bed, 2wd, 302 V8 and three speed on the tree. I was told I was the third owner and that the 74,XXX miles that are on it are original and that it has not been turned over. The truck runs great and fires up every time, just needs a good home. I am looking at getting $2500 o.b.o. So serious buyers and cash only (no payments). Respond to this by email or call me at XXX-XXXX, leave a message if I don’t pickup, and I can send more pics or answer any questions. Thanks
Ford cannot be confident that over many years in service, a speed control deactivation switch installed on your vehicle will not leak brake fluid, posing the risk of a fire. This condition may occur either when the vehicle is parked or when it is being operated.
This risk exists on vehicles equipped with or without speed control.
Ford Motor Company has authorized your dealer to perform the repairs under this program and your dealer on your vehicle free of charge (parts and labor).
Your dealer may be able to perform this repair while you wait; however, due to scheduling requirements, your dealer may need your vehicle for a longer period of time.
Please call your dealer without delay and request a service date for Recall 09S09. Provide the dealer with the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) of your vehicle. The VIN is printed near your name at the beginning of this letter.
Until you have the recall service performed, park your vehicle outdoors away from structures to prevent a potential fire from spreading.
I took it to the local Don Chalmers Ford who was able to get my truck in immediately. They had my truck for about 6 hours and gave me a receipt. Total cost of the repair charged to Ford was 28.89. I realize Ford has millions of these to pay for but I have never taken my truck to a Ford dealer and had such a cheap repair. If I had to pay for this myself, I wonder how much it would have cost me.
There is nothing wrong with my 1997 Ford Ranger except that it’s getting up there in age (kind of like me). Since it’s my only vehicle I am always concerned about total failure or some expensive repairs that could be more than the value of my truck. I’m very interested in what the government’s CAR Allowance Rebate System (formally known as Cash for Clunkers) could do.
Your vehicle must be less than 25 years old on the trade-in date
Only purchase or lease of new vehicles qualify
Generally, trade-in vehicles must get 18 or less MPG (some very large pick-up trucks and cargo vans have different requirements)
Trade-in vehicles must be registered and insured continuously for the full year preceding the trade-in
You don’t need a voucher, dealers will apply a credit at purchase
Program runs through Nov 1, 2009 or when the funds are exhausted, whichever comes first.
The program requires the scrapping of your eligible trade-in vehicle, and that the dealer disclose to you an estimate of the scrap value of your trade-in. The scrap value, however minimal, will be in addition to the rebate, and not in place of the rebate.
According to the fueleconomy.gov website, my 1997 Ford Ranger qualifies for the gas efficiently requirements because they say it gets an combined gas miles of 16 MPG.
I was surprised to see that the EPA says my truck gets such low gas milage. I can get at least 18 MPG in town and 22 MPG on the freeway. I was also surprised when I compared my 1997 model with a 2009 Ford Ranger that the 2009 model gets 1 MPG less.
If I were to replace my vehicle under the CARS program, I wouldn’t replace it with a super fuel efficient vehicle. I would need to replace it with another truck (yes I do actually use my truck as a truck and utility vehicle). This doesn’t help me very much because nearly every new truck gets nearly the same gas mileage as mine. I compared my truck to a variety of similar trucks. I could find two that met the mileage requirements and only one actually qualified.
The 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 15 Hybrid 4 wheel drive qualifies on the gas miles requirements as it gets 20 MPG. But for some reason it is a Category 2 or Category 3 truck and I cannot trade in my truck for own of those. I don’t know what they category requirements are but seems kind of silly on the surface.
The second possibility is the 2009 Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive. It barely gets 2 MPG more than my current truck netting me $3500 in rebate. Is it really worth it for me to trade in my perfectly good working truck for a new one?
Kelly Blue Book says it’s worth about $3000 in trade in value. CARS is not saving me much on the trade in. A new Toyota pickup will be about $26,000 leaving me for about $23,000. That runs just under $400 a month depending on financing.
I just don’t think it’s worth it to trade in a perfectly good pickup that may or may not have problems in the immediate future for a $400 a month payment.